Beverly Weddington
(727) 799-7351

EMAIL: bweddin1@tampabay.rr.com

Welcome to Cambea's Bichon Frise and Maltese located in Clearwater, FL

BRING YOUR PUPPY TO YOUR VETERINARIAN WITHIN TWO (2) BUSINESS DAYS FOR IT'S INITIAL WELL-PUPPY CHECKUP.

Initial vaccinations will not guarantee that your puppy will be immune, but the entire series of vaccinations must be completed in order to protect your puppy from viruses/disease. During this time, it is best to keep your puppy away from unknown animals, groomers, stores, parks and kennels.

Since your puppy is accustomed to being near it's litter mates, it is important to keep your puppy warm after bringing it home. Consider placing warm bedding and stuffy toys in the kennel so the puppy will not get cold and can snuggle for comfort.

Keep poisonous substances out of your dogs reach, including insecticides, household detergents, and household plants. Some indoor plants such as English Ivy, Offenbach's, Philodendron, and Palladiums are poisonous; so don't let your puppy chew or play with their leaves. A veterinarian can give you a list of hazardous plants and other toxins or check our list below.

Provide a quiet place to feed and house your puppy. It is important to find an area that the puppy will feel secure, free from traffic and drafts but please do not isolate. Do not change the puppy's food without consulting your breeder or veterinarian; and refrain from feeding table scraps as this can cause intestinal problems.

Initially your puppy needs plenty of rest, so handling and playtime should be kept to a minimum. If you have children, be sure to instruct them of the proper way in which to pick up and hold the puppy; a puppy should never be picked up by it's front legs or neck. Do not let puppy jump on or off the furniture. Until a puppy can jump ON the furniture they cannot get off. If they are too small as an adult to jump onto the furniture, they should never be left unattended. They could get a foot stuck between the cushions and pull a ligament or slip a patella. Be consistent and patient with your puppy; he/she will reward you with unconditional love and companionship.

TOPICS

Nutrition

Recommended List Of Teething Chews/Treats

Health: Vaccinations and Worms

Supplies For Bringing Home Puppy

Safe Area

House Training - Funny

Puppy Proof Your House

Puppies and Small Children

Acclimatization and Socialization

Don't Be Surprised When...

Puppy Biting

How To Care For Your Pet's Teeth

Dental Facts

Teething

Grooming

Blue Power Ear Wash Recipe

Reinforcing Good Behavior

Nutri-Cal

Hypoglycemia (Low Blood Sugar)

Exercise

What Foods Are Toxic To Dogs?

Age Equivalent

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs

Toxic Plants

Nutrition

Feeding is one of the most important areas in your puppy's development; it begins very early when the puppy is weaned and continues throughout its life. The food that a dog is given plays an important role in it's muscle and bone development.

Your puppy is currently eating Life's Abundance Premium Health Food for Puppies & Adult Dogs.

Life's Abundance Premium Health Food is made with select ingredients, including high-quality chicken and catfish meals, whole grains, nutritious vegetables and fruits, omega fatty acids and much more. We never use corn or wheat products and we never use artificial flavors or colors. With Life's Abundance, you can be confident that you are feeding your dog advanced nutrition.

Please note that both the Bichon Frise and Maltese are grazers (meaning that they will only eat a few kibbles at a time throughout the day). Your puppy's feeding schedule is as follows: I always leave a 1/2 cup of dry kibble available to the puppies during daytime hours (Maltese - they have dry kibble available 24 hours a day). When I prepare the puppies for the day and give them their A.M. feeding I mix Life's Abundance Vitamins Visit http://www.lifesabundance.com/Pets/Supplements/WellnessFoodSupplement.aspx?realname=40005278&cat=0&hdr=&Ath=False to purchase) to their dry kibble. I recheck their food periodically throughout the day and if needed, I will re-measure for another 1/2 cup dry kibble. . I use 1/8 tsp. Tylan Soluble Powder (visit www.revivalanimal.com to purchase) mixed with 32 oz. of the puppy's drinking water - I use this product to help with any facial/paw staining. The Tylan Soluble Powder is very safe to use on young puppies and adults. Over a period of a few months, the Tylan will change the PH Level in the tears and saliva so that the bacteria will not build up in the coat and cause discoloration on the face and paws. The Bichon Frise puppies will have their food and water taken up around 7 P.M. and the Maltese puppies will have their food and water 24 hours a day. A young puppy's activity level is high and you will want to be sure that it is eating enough to develop properly and steadily gain weight.

Remember to keep a bowl or bottle of fresh clean water near your dog's food bowl. In order to develop good eating habits, allow your dog its own dining area. Feeding times should be at the same time and in the same place every day. Your dog's food and water should be served at room temperature so that the food is neither too hot nor too cold. Snack foods such as cake, chocolate, and other junk foods or people food are not for dogs and should never be given to them. Other unhealthy foods include spicy, fried, starchy or fatty foods. Chicken, pork, and fish bones can also be very dangerous to a dog if eaten since they can cause intestinal damage and tear the stomach lining.

If you choose to make any changes in diet, do so gradually. Begin by mixing small portions of the new food with the one being replaced, until it is completely switched over. The amount of food that a puppy eats and the number of times per day that a puppy is fed changes as it matures. After you take your puppy home, an adjustment period may be needed of at least two weeks. I always recommend that your puppy should have the first two weeks of the same diet that I sent them home with until they make their adjustment to their new homes. Remember though, that it is very important that your puppy receive a high quality diet to ensure ultimate health.

You may need to make some dietary changes depending on your dog's age, growth, and activity level; your veterinarian can assist you in making these adjustments, if necessary. If your puppy becomes sick, the nutritional needs will change. Consult with your veterinarian to make the proper dietary adjustments; vitamin and mineral supplements can also be given.

There are a variety of feeding dishes to choose from hard plastic, stainless steel, and earthenware dishes, available in many shapes and sizes. My preference is stainless steel. Choose one that is large enough to hold each meal, but will not tip over or spill as your dog eats. It is very important to keep your dog's feeding and watering dishes clean on a daily basis with hot soapy water, rinsed and dry thoroughly.

Recommended List Of Teething Chews/Treats

Life's Abundance Brand Gourmet Dental Treats - (can be purchased by calling 877-387-4564 code 40005278) With Gourmet Dental Treats, you'll be helping to support dental health and treating your dog to scrumptious oven-baked goodness!

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Life's Abundance Training Treats - (can be purchased by calling 877-387-4564 code 40005278) Tasty Rewards are wholesome nutritional training treats made from New Zealand-raised chicken and lamb.

They're loaded with proteins, minerals, vitamins and essential fatty acids. And, like all of Life's Abundance foods, supplements and treats, you'll find no added chemical preservatives or artificial coloring.

With Tasty Rewards Training Treats, discipline can be delicious!

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Merrick Brand Natural Lamb Chews - Merrick's Natural Lamb Ears were created for dogs who need lamb source treats to compliment their lamb diet as well as provide a smaller treat to the little guy or gal. This ear Merrick's smallest ear and is perfect for the dogs that can't quite get their mouths around some of the larger chews.

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Merrick Brand Snozzles - This pork snout was one of the first unique treats to be introduced into the natural treat market and it has been successful since day one.

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Merrick Texas Toothpicks - Merrick's Texas Toothpicks are a one of a kind treat for the love in your life; your dog. These natural toothpicks are a dog's best friend. They love the crunchy, chewy sensation. These treats have a puffy texture to them that allows dogs of all ages to enjoy these culinary delights. Dogs love beef and these beef tails satisfy the natural carnivore that resides in each of them.

Health: Vaccinations and Worms

Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch was properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place). Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens (passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical time). After the colostrum ceases (a day or so later), the maternal antigens decline steadily.

It has been the custom for many years to administer vaccines annually to all breeds of dogs. There has also been an increase in all breeds of autoimmune diseases, including in Bichons. Many breeders have long suspected a connection and research veterinarians have agreed. Therefore there have been a number of well-documented research studies in the last 5 years as to whether annual administration of preventive vaccines is warranted.

Research has indicated that yearly vaccines are not necessary to insure immunity and that some vaccines have little effect on prevention of certain diseases. Recommendations have been issued suggesting that only core vaccines be given to all dogs, those being distemper, parvo, adenovirus and rabies. Other vaccines should be administered only on a need basis, if at all. Furthermore, these vaccines should only be given every 3 years or the dogs should have blood titers run to determine if the vaccine is needed at all. More about titers later. The Bichon Frise Club of America also recommends that any combination shots be separated entirely from the injection of rabies vaccines by a minimum of one month.

It seems necessary to us, the parent club responsible for overseeing the health and welfare of Bichons, to strongly urge all Bichon owners to be an advocate for their dogs. While many veterinarians are heeding the recommendations, far too many continue to vaccinate all dogs annually, regardless of health of the animal or advisories against this practice. Therefore the owner must take responsibility to question the habitual action, asking instead for a blood titer.

Blood titers are long established as a means of determining the level of a given substance in the blood, in this case antibodies present in the blood to protect the animal against disease. While a blood titer is more expensive than vaccine, it is far less expensive in the long run than treating a potentially fatal blood disorder or other serious disease. Now there are machines available to veterinary clinics that will enable some to do these tests in house rather than to send them out to laboratories to be run. The test done in the veterinarian's own clinic should reduce costs considerably. But we should never consider cost of testing to be more important than protecting the health of the animal.

Rabies may be the most stressful vaccine of them all. However because of the increase of rabies in wild animal populations, these vaccines remain essential to protecting the dog from fatal illness. Some states require yearly vaccination by law, while others require the immunization be given every 3 years. While we feel strongly that the 3 year vaccine does prove effective for Bichons, which are a house breed and not a yard breed, we cannot recommend that you break the law. It is extremely important to the health of your Bichon that this vaccine, whether the one year or the three year, be given a minimum of one month before or after the combination shot. Better yet, separate them by several months to allow the immune system to recover between injections.

We, the BFCA Health Committee, urge you to discuss vaccines with your veterinarian so that between you, you can do what is best for your dog. We are basing our recommendation on reliable research as well as our own data collected on thousands of Bichons. Too many of them are dying too young from disease that might have been prevented had the immune system been stronger.

To sum up, these are our recommendations:

* Combo vaccination (DA2PP) WITHOUT corona or leptospirosis

* Combo given at ages 10 -12 weeks and at 16 weeks, one year later, and then every 3 years unless titers show that immunity level is adequate.

Since recent research shows most dogs will not need additional boosters, we encourage you to discuss this with your veterinarian and to substitute titers for the sake of continuing sound health.

* Rabies vaccine at 5-6 months of age, repeated one year later (about age 18 months) and then every 3 years

* Any other vaccines only when absolutely necessary due to circumstances in the area where the dog resides

Please feel free to print out this article for your veterinarian to read and as a start to a discussion with him or her. Your veterinarian will understand that you and the parent club choose to act as advocates for your dog and have his (her) best interests at heart. Our statement is based on valid research and the data that we have collected on the health of Bichons nationwide and around the world.

In addition, because they also can be a factor in autoimmune disease, we strongly suggest that you discuss with your veterinarian the use of preventive drops and medications for fleas, ticks and other pests.

You should keep your puppy away from all strange dogs. If you know that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize. The same holds true for people. Ask them to wash their hands before they play with your puppy. It can't hurt and it could save you a great deal of grief. As your puppy gets its shots, you can slowly add more and more exposure to its life. But keep in mind this is an infant and needs gentle care!

Worms can present a serious problem to puppy health. There is no good way to prevent puppies from having worms, for a variety of reasons. You should take your puppy in regularly for worm-testing. Worms can interfere with the puppy's growth if left unchecked. Since it is very common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked regularly when young.

Supplies For Bringing Home Puppy

There are several items that you should have on hand for your new puppy. We have opened an e-store named PUPPY PAWTIQUE OF CAMBEA'S which provides all the puppy supplies that you will need to bring your new puppy home.

Over the many years of breeding, handling and owning Bichon Frise and Maltese, we have been able to narrow what products work with the puppy's diet, training, grooming and overall well being. We are now making the convenience of these products available to your family. When you make your decision for your new puppy, all supplies will be available to take home with your puppy or you can pre-order your selections and have ready once you pickup your puppy.

Safe Area

I like to use the puppy Exercise Pen for my puppies. It gives them a safe environment when I cannot monitor them as well as teaches them what their boundaries are. I put a soft bed or a Pipe Dreams bed, chews, soft toys to cuddle with, water bottle affixed to side of pen, food bowl affixed to side of pen (puppies like to tip bowls over and play in their water), and a puppy potty pad with a plastic grate on top to deter the puppy from shredding the pad. Depending on each individual puppy, at nighttime, I will either put the puppy in a crate appropriate for their size with bedding, soft toy and a little bedtime "cookie" or leave them in the puppy Exercise Pen with access to an open door crate. Very important to remember for potty training is NO food - NO water throughout the night (but of course exceptions must be made for the Maltese - they need access to food/water 24 hours a day to avoid hypoglycemia). Puppies can get into lots of trouble if they are left unsupervised, so it is necessary to put them in a confined area to keep them safe. This is just a temporary place until the puppy is older, less mischievous and hopefully housebroken!

House Training

I found this important training tip elsewhere on the web - "A rolled up newspaper can be an effective training tool when used properly. For instance, use the rolled up newspaper if your dog chews something or has a housebreaking accident. Take the rolled up newspaper and hit yourself over the head as you repeat the phrase, "I FORGOT TO WATCH MY DOG, I FORGOT TO WATCH MY DOG." If your dog laughs at you when you do this, praise him."

I LOVE THIS!

Puppy Proof Your House

You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew whatever they can get at in your absence. You must put the puppy where either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the possible damage. Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture, chew on carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things. Besides the destruction, the puppy may well injure itself, even seriously.

A good solution to this is a puppy Exercise Pen. The Exercise Pen is either metal or plastic sides (I prefer the metal pens because they are smaller for storage) that the puppy will be confined in but yet have the ability to "learn" - you should put in a bed, food, water, toys, and a potty area (I like the potty pad frames with a plastic grate on top so the puppy cannot shred the pad). Depending on the puppy, when I put them to bed at night, I will either leave them in the exercise pen with access to an open door crate or put them in a crate with bedding, soft toy and their nighttime "cookie" - if the puppy is a Maltese I will also include food and water that hangs from the crate door.

Please put your pup in an environment it can't destroy. Puppies are too immature to handle temptations. Depending on the breed, most dogs begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild temptations when they're about 6 months old. Consider the analogy with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are not holding it.

It is essential to puppy-proof your home. You should think of it in the same way as child-proofing your house but be more thorough about it. Puppies are smaller and more active than babies and have sharp teeth and claws. Things of especial concern are electric wires. If you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job! When puppy proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if possible) and consider things from this angle. What looks enticing, what is breakable, what is sharp, etc. The most important things are watching the puppy and, of course, putting the puppy in the exercise pen when you can't watch it.

Another step in puppy proofing is house proofing the puppy. Teach it what is and isn't chewable. The single most effective way to do this is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand. When the puppy starts to chew on an unacceptable item (be it a chair, rug, and especially the human hand), remove the item from the puppy's mouth with a stern, "NO!" and replace it with a chew toy and praise the puppy for playing with the toy. If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea that only the things you give it are to be chewed on! Don't stint on the praise, and keep the "No!" to a single calm, sharp noise -- don't yell or scream the word.

There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus aid in your training. Bitter Apple (available at PUPPY PAWTIQUE) impart a bitter taste to many things without staining, etc. You should not depend on these products to keep your puppy safe, but use them as a training aid.

A short checklist:

* Breakables up out of reach
* All wiring and cords put out of reach behind furniture, or encased in hard plastic flexible tubing (available at hardware stores, can be cut to size) to slow puppy down
* Anything small enough to be swallowed (pennies, bounce balls, shoelaces, bits of paper, socks, nuts, bolts, wire) removed from the floor
* Block access behind furniture wherever possible
* Put children's toys and stuffed animals away
Many times I have seen puppies run around with things in the mouth and wondered where in the world did you get that.

Puppies and Small Children

Keep puppies and very small children apart or under close supervision. Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of puppy's eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails, among other problems. So keep children 6 years or so and younger away from the puppy or with supervision until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy and child.

Teach your children how to approach a puppy or dog, to prevent being jumped on. They should understand that they should put out their hands below the pup's chin, to keep it from jumping at a hand above its head. They should not scream or run away, as the puppy will then chase the child thinking the child is playing with them.

Acclimatization and Socialization

Accustom your puppy to many things at a young age. Baths, brushing, clipping nails, cleaning ears, having teeth examined, and so on. Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its life.

For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it with your fingers. Do this every evening until the dog stops fussing about it. Continue to do it and you'll always know if your dog's ears are okay.

Brushing is important, especially for double coated or long-haired dogs when they begin to shed. A little effort now to get your puppy to enjoy brushing will save you a lot of trouble later.

During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be exposed to a variety of social situations. After the puppy has had all its shots, carefully expose it to the outside world. Take it to different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you can think of that would be different for a little puppy. If the puppy seems afraid, then let it explore by itself. Encourage the puppy, but be firm, not coaxing. Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a good place; dog shows are another. You want the pup to learn about the world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it is an adult. You also want it to learn that you will not ask it to do anything dangerous or harmful. Socializing your dog can be much fun for you and the dog!

Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers. DO NOT "soothe" them, or say things like "easy, boy/girl," "it's OK..." This serves as REINFORCEMENT and ENCOURAGES the fear or growling! Instead, say "no!" sharply and praise it WHEN IT STOPS. Praise it even more when it allows its head to be petted. If it starts growling or backing up again, say "no!" Be a little more gentle with the "no" if the dog exhibits fear, but do be firm. With a growling dog, be much more emphatic and stern with your "no!"

If you are planning to attend a puppy class (and you should, they are not expensive) ask the instructor about her/his views before you sign up. If socialization is not part of the class, look elsewhere.

Don't Be Surprised When...

Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom. Many puppies do not begin this behavior until they are four or five months old.

Your puppy does not seem to pick its name up quickly. Sometimes it takes several weeks before you consistently get a reaction when you say its name. (Be careful not to use its name in a negative sense! Clap or shout instead.)

Your puppy does not seem to be particularly happy with verbal praise. You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise.

Your puppy falls asleep in the middle of some other activity. Puppies need lots of sleep but since they are easily distracted, they sometimes forget to go to sleep and so will fall asleep at bizarre times: while eating, chewing, or even running.

Your puppy twitches while sleeping. This indicates healthy neural development. Twitching will be most pronounced for the first few months of the puppy's life, and slowly diminish thereafter. There are many adult dogs that continue some twitching. Expect muffled woofs and snuffling noises, too.

Your puppy hiccups. Many puppies hiccup. The only thing to do is wait for them to pass. Don't worry about it, they will outgrow it.

Puppy Biting

If you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will notice that they spend much of their time biting and grabbing each other with their mouths. This is normal puppy behavior. When you take a puppy from the litter and into your home, the puppy will play bite and mouth you. This is normal behavior, but needs to be modified so you and the puppy will be happy.

The first thing to teach your new puppy is that human flesh is much more sensitive than other puppies and that it really hurts us when they bite. This is called bite inhibition. A puppy has very sharp teeth and a weak jaw. This means that the puppy can cause you to be uncomfortable when mouthing or puppy biting you, but can not cause severe damage. An adult dog has duller teeth and a powerful jaw. This means that an adult dog can cause significant damage when biting. ANY DOG WILL BITE GIVEN THE RIGHT OR WRONG CIRCUMSTANCES ! If a small child falls on your adult dog and sticks a finger in the dog's eye, you should not be surprised if the dog bites. If you do a good job teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you should get a grab and release without damage. If you don't, you may get a hard bite with significant damage.

It is simple to teach a puppy bite inhibition. Every time the puppy touches you with its teeth, say "OUCH!" in a harsh tone of voice. This will probably not stop the puppy from mouthing, but over time should result in softer and gentler puppy biting.

The commands necessary to teach a puppy NOT to mouth, are easy and fun. Hold a small handful of the puppy's dry food, say "take it" in a sweet tone of voice, and give the puppy one piece of food. Then close the rest of the food in your hand and say "off" in that same sweet tone of voice. When the puppy has not touched your hand for 3 to 5 seconds, say "take it" and give the puppy one piece of food. We are teaching the puppy that "off" means not to touch. You should practice this with the puppy.

After a couple of weeks of the above training, here is how you are going to handle puppy biting or mouthing:

Unexpected mouthing (you don't know the puppy is going to mouth, until you feel the puppy's teeth):
"OUCH!"

Expected mouthing (you see the puppy getting ready to mouth you):
You say "OFF" before the puppy can mouth you.

The puppy is mouthing you because of a desire to play.

You have to answer the question, "Do I have time to play with the puppy now ?" If you do, then do "sit", "down", "stand" or other positive 'lure and reward' training. If the answer is "No, I don't have time for the puppy, right now." then you need to do a time out (Exercise Pen, or otherwise confine the puppy, so the puppy can't continue to mouth you and get in trouble.

The above training methods have been modified from information that I learned from Dr Ian Dunbar in his puppy training seminars and from his excellent video 'Sirius Puppy Training' which is available by calling 510-658-8588.

How To Care For Your Pet's Teeth

To brush your pet's teeth you must train your pet gradually over several weeks. Small dogs are most easily done on a table or counter. Larger dogs can be sitting on the floor. One person may need to hold the dog and someone else may have to actually do the brushing. Make it fun!

WEEK 1

Start by just looking at the teeth. Do this once a day. Pull the lips back from the from the front of the muzzle and check the long canine teeth. Then, pull your finger back towards the corners of the mouth to see the premolars and molars, checking both top and bottom. Rub your finger along the gums. Then do the same for the other side of the mouth and the front incisor teeth. This takes about 30 seconds. Be sure to praise your pet as you do this. Give him a treat or favorite toy at the end.

WEEK 2

Once a day, use a toothbrush to play with your pet's mouth, using the same rubbing motion as with your finger.

WEEK 3

This week, use toothpaste. Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation for the type to use. There are gels, solutions, and sprays on the market. Human toothpaste, salt, or baking soda should NOT be used. Human toothpaste has detergent in it that foams and may cause gastric upsets if swallowed. Salt and baking soda are NOT as effective as modern toothpaste in removing plaque and their sodium content may be dangerous in elderly pets with their heart problems.

It is important to brush your pet's teeth daily. Brushing less frequently really does not remove plaque often enough to prevent gingivitis and periodontal disease. Remember, plaque builds up just 6-8 hours after brushing! Also, pets respond to regular routine. If done daily, most pets will actually enjoy the attention. If done less frequently, they will fight and resent the procedure.

Dental Facts

* Puppies have 28 temporary teeth, 14 in the upper jaw and 14 in the lower jaw. These deciduous teeth erupt at about three to four weeks of age.

* Dogs have 42 permanent teeth, 20 on the top, and 22 on the bottom. These begin to emerge at about four months of age.

* Dogs have 6 permanent teeth that have 3 roots each, and 14 teeth that each have 2 roots.

* Puppies should lose a puppy tooth before the corresponding adult tooth emerges. If a puppy tooth is still in place when an adult tooth begins to show it is called a retained deciduous teeth. If this occurs, see your veterinarian so the dog's occlusion is not affected.

* Studies show that by age three, 80 percent of dogs exhibit signs of gum disease. Symptoms include yellow and brown buildup of tartar along the gumline, red inflamed gums and persistent bad breath.

* Facial swelling below the eye is usually due to an infection of the 4th premolar (carnassial) tooth.

* Sneezing and nasal discharge may be due to an infection of the upper canine tooth. The infection may lead to an opening between the mouth and the nasal cavity. This is called an oronasal fistula.

* Small dog breeds are more likely to develop periodontal disease than large dogs because the teeth of small dogs are often too large for their mouths, according to veterinary dentistry experts.

* A broken tooth is a common problem, especially among outdoor dogs. The canine teeth of working dogs are essential to allowing the dogs to carry prey and other objects. If these teeth become broken, a canine dentist can prepare a metal crown.

Teething

Around 4 to 5 months of age, puppies will start to get their permanent teeth. There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and control the chewing.

* Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy.

* Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on.

* Or my favorite is frozen baby carrots.

* Soften the kibble a bit with water.

* Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.

Puppies lose their teeth in a distinct pattern: first the small front teeth come out. Then the premolars just behind the canines. Then the molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those erupting as well). Finally the canine teeth come out. Sometimes the adult canines erupt before the baby canines have come all the way out.

During this time, some discomfort, including bleeding gums is to be expected. Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above). You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them.

Grooming

Grooming can be a special time of bonding between a pet and its owner. Some areas of grooming include bathing, coat care, eye/ear care, and nail/teeth care.

Groom your puppy daily starting from the day that you bring puppy home. Bath as frequently as required (my bathing time for my dogs/puppies is on Fridays - everyone gets a bath). If you choose to groom your puppy on a table, don't forget that puppies firmly believe they can fly so keep one hand on puppy at all times. A rubber car mat or rubber shelf liner on your work area makes a good non-slip grooming surface. A shampoo specifically made for white-coated dogs will work great for your puppy - check CAMBEA'S PUPPY PAWTIQUE for grooming supplies.

The tools of the trade will be a slicker brush and a long tooth comb (greyhound metal comb). Taking the slicker brush and remembering to keep the teeth of the brush level with which ever part of the dog you are grooming, very softly part and brush every part of the dogs coat taking great care to brush away from the eyes. Remember that knots will always occur in the following areas: between the front legs, between the back legs, around male dog testicles, behind the ears, and under the chin. If you do find a knot, hold the knot so that your fingers are between the knot and the skin and carefully tease the knot out.

Most puppies love having their coats brushed and combed. They are usually easy to handle if you are gentle, taking care to not pull their hair.

Check your puppy's eyes and ears during the grooming process; the eyes should be clear and bright and the ears should be clean. It may be necessary to clip some hair within the ears if there is not a clear air passage. Pay close attention to the ears; if you notice any redness, swelling, or sensitivity to touch, contact your veterinarian immediately.

You should keep your puppy's nails clipped to ensure good foot development. Let your veterinarian show you how to do this so you do not clip too much. If you clip too far back, you may cut a vein and make the nail bleed. Be sure to have a good, sharp nail clipper to do this job. If it makes you uncomfortable or your dog will not cooperate, you can have your veterinarian clip them for you.

Blue Power Ear Wash Recipe

INGREDIENTS:

16 Oz. Isopropyl Alcohol
4 Tablespoons Boric Acid Powder
16 Drops Gentian Violet Solution 1%
Mix together in alcohol bottle and shake well.

Please shake this solution every time you use it to mix the Boric Acid Powder. Either a baby ear syringe or a plastic squirt bottle work well for putting the solution in the ear.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:

Evaluate condition of ears before treating and if the ears are inflamed and sore do not attempt to pull hair or clean out ear at all. Just flush and then wait until inflammation is gone, which will be about two days. Warm the solution and shake the bottle each time before using. The dogs will accept the treatment much better if you warm it up for them.

Flood the ear with solution (gently squirt bottle).

Massage gently, wipe with 100% cotton pad.

On first treatment: flood the ear twice, wipe with a pad, and leave alone without massage.

The dog will shake out the excess, which can be wiped with a tissue. (Note: the Gentian Violet does stain fabrics so you're best to do this outdoors.)

Treat 2x per day for the first week to two weeks, depending upon severity of ears.

After the 2nd or 3rd day you can clean out the ear with a tissue or cotton pad.

Treat 1x per day for the next 1-2 weeks.

Treat 1x per month (or even less frequently, depending on the dog).

Reinforcing Good Behavior

Puppies want attention. They will do a lot to get that attention -- even if it is negative! Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good, you are reinforcing the wrong things. Ignore the bad things (or stop it without yelling or scolding) and enthusiastically praise it when its doing what you want, even if it's as simple as sitting and looking at you, or quietly chewing one of its toys. This can be difficult to do, as it is essentially reversing all your normal reactions. But it is very important: you will wind up with a puppy that pays attention to you and is happy to do what you want, if it understands you.

Nutri-Cal

This high calorie dietary supplement in a tube (looks like a tube of toothpaste) is a must have if you are bringing home a tiny size dog. It will help keep a tiny dog or puppy from going into hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). It is also a great source of extra vitamins for any size puppy. It will insure that your puppy is getting some good nutrition while it adjusts to it's new home. With a dime size portion on your finger, gently open puppy's mouth and scrape your finger on top teeth so that Nutri-cal goes on the roof of puppy's mouth. A small amount should be given 2 or 3 times a day for the first week or two, until your tiny puppy is settled in and eating well.

Hypoglycemia (Low Blood Sugar)

Hypoglycemia is a condition which occurs in humans and some animals when their blood sugar, or glucose, level falls below normal. Glucose is a form of sugar which is such an important fuel for the body, and especially the brain, that a deficiency can cause serious health problems. The main dietary sources of glucose are carbohydrate-rich foods such as grains, starchy vegetables, dairy products, fruits, and sweets. It occurs mostly in toy breeds but it can also occur in the larger breeds as well. Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy goes to a new home, misses a meal or doesn't eat full meals, becomes chilled, overtired, an increase in physical exercise activity without a corresponding increase in food intake; improper diet or feeding schedule, or exhausted from too much handling or playing.

Typically a puppy is scared when you take them home that they may not want to eat for the first day/evening. I want to say don't be alarmed but cautious. This is very common and by the next day they should start eating like they are starving and everything is back to normal. If your puppy is pretty small, you should have a tube of Nutri-Cal at home for your puppy. This is a vitamin supplement that the main ingredient in it is corn syrup. This is what saves a lot of puppies that stand a chance of getting hypoglycemic. It can be given every two hours if needed. I go ahead and give my little ones NutriCal while they are making adjustments in their lives every two hours for the first day and then twice on the second day. When the puppy is eating well and into his/her routine, Nutra Cal can be given once a day as a vitamin supplement. Some people have used corn syrup when there is nothing else available and their puppy is very weak (becoming hypoglycemic). If your puppy seems to be acting normal one minute, running and playing and then all of a sudden they are so tired they cannot lift their head, this is a sure sign of hypoglycemia. If ignored, the puppy will become almost lifeless, have seizures and lose conscience. This would be near death and nothing to be ignored. A puppy can die very quickly if not treated. The best thing to do is get some corn syrup down them quickly (pancake syrup or something very sweet) and rush the puppy to your vet. After giving them the sugar, they should respond within 30 minutes. They can almost return to normal but you need to find out what the cause is.

Symptoms of Hypoglycemia (in increasing order of severity)

* Fatigue, Weakness, Listlessness
* Nervousness, Trembling, Shakiness
* Confusion, Dizziness
* Rapid Heart Rate, Palpitations
* White Gums
* Rolling Eyes
* Fainting
* Convulsion or Seizure (spasms, locking jaws, rigid muscles)
* Breathing Stops

Treatment for Hypoglycemia

Immediately feed them Nutri-Cal or if you don't have Nutri-Cal on hand, a few teaspoons full of something that contains some form of sugar (pancake syrup, honey, cake icing) in order to raise the blood glucose level. (Force feed if necessary--worry about the mess later.) We recommend Nutri-CalTM/Nutri-StatTM, a high calorie food supplement gel containing molasses, protein, fat and several essential vitamins, complex carbohydrates, amino acids and omega fatty acids. Hydration is also very important--make sure that they drink some fluids.

If the dog won't take the food willingly (or consciously), put some mashed food on your finger and rub it on the roof of their mouth and on their tongue. Then, if necessary, insert a syringe (without needle) of water into their mouth and gently squeeze the water in for them to drink and wash down the food. Be careful not to force too much at a time, or they could choke. Once something is ingested, you should see a quick improvement and lessening of symptoms--if not, get immediate emergency attention from a Veterinarian. Even if you decide to go to the Vet from the beginning, try to get something into them to raise their blood sugar levels while on the way to the Vet because time is critical.

Prevention of Hypoglycemia

At regular intervals, feed small meals containing complex carbohydrates (rice, yogurt, etc.), as well as the usual fiber, protein, fat, vitamins and minerals. Give a daily nutritional supplement that will maintain glucose levels, such as the recommended Nutri-CalTM/Nutri-StatTM high calorie supplement. Avoid skipping meals. Balance extra exercise activity with extra food.

After a puppy has experienced Hypoglycemia, I always monitor them 24 hours a day. I will scramble eggs with cheese, give yogurt, Gerber Meat Sticks, any food that I feel they will eat - they get.

YOUR PUPPY NEEDS YOUR TENDER LOVING CARE, AND IN RETURN YOUR PUPPY WILL GIVE YOU A LIFETIME OF LOVE.

Exercise

Exercise is an essential element in your puppy's development, both physically and mentally. While it is important to monitor your dog's dietary habits and provide the proper medical attention, it is equally imperative to provide your dog with adequate exercise.

I MUST CAUTION THAT PUPPY'S COMPLETE SERIES OF VACCINATIONS AND RABIES SHOULD BE COMPLETED BEFORE INTRODUCING THEM TO AREAS THAT ARE VISITED BY OTHER DOGS.

This is especially important if your dog is confined during the day, while you are at work or school. An allotted time should be set aside each day for exercise. Your puppy can be taken outdoors for exercise after meals; a housebroken dog will be accustomed to this arrangement and can gain some exercise time while taking care of his "business."

If you choose to leash train your puppy, familiarize your puppy with a collar or harness and leash as soon as possible. You might even allow your puppy to wear the collar a few days before attaching the leash. If you take your puppy on a long walk through the park or playground, keep it on the leash; the leash should be long enough to allow your dog sufficient room to run and jump. Also, make sure that your puppy is wearing a tag or collar which identifies its name and address in case it were to become separated from you.

Always allow your puppy some warm-up time before engaging in heavy play. Since most puppies are enthusiastic about exercise, you should provide ample time for activity and exertion. This enables a dog to look its best by staying in shape, and is a great form of stress or tension release.

What Foods Are Toxic To Dogs

While you love your dear dog and want him to have the healthiest of diets, it's important to know which foods to consume and which must be avoided at all costs. In fact, there are specific foods which are toxic to dogs. Whether its grapes or cabbage or extensive table scraps or bread dough be aware of the list below as toxic food for dogs ... in other words, what not to feed!

We'll start with human food. Baby food can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. In addition, it can result in nutritional deficiencies especially if fed in large amounts. Simply stated, it's best to avoid since this could be toxic to dogs. That's why it's called baby food and not dog food.

Table scraps in large amounts could be classified as toxic food for dogs. Why? Because they're not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of your dog's diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat and bones should definitely not be fed. Cooked meat and cooked fats are carcinogenic to dogs.

Bones from fish and cooked bones can obstruct the digestive system. Not good!

Chocolate, coffee, tea, and caffeinated drinks are bad. They contain caffeine which could be toxic and impact the heart and nervous systems.

Citrus oil extracts result in vomiting. Stay away!

Grapes and raisins contain unknown toxins which can do damage to the kidneys. Definitely considered toxic food for dogs.

Large amounts of cooked liver cause Vitamin A toxicity, which impacts muscles and bones. Yet another item which is toxic to dogs.

Macadamia nuts, like grapes and raisins, contain unknown toxins.

Spoiled food and garbage - just don't go there. Definitely considered toxic for dogs.

Mushrooms can result in shock and cause death.

Alcohol can result in coma and death.

Bread dough can result in a bloated belly and then disorientation and vomiting. Since it yeast that hasn't risen yet, you do not want it to expand in Fido's belly, much less get stuck in the intestines! This, like the other items on the list, could be toxic to dogs.

Onions and garlic, whether it's raw, cooked, or powder in large amounts have the ability to damage red blood cells and cause anemia.

As for chemicals, dogs need to be kept away from all antifreeze spills since this could be hazardous and toxic to dogs. While the sweet smell and taste may be attractive to his sensitive nose, if your dog consumes any amount of antifreeze, rush him immediately to the veterinarian. (Check your garage and driveway for spills and clean these up before your pet has a chance to smell and potentially ingest this!)

Xylitol is a sugar-alcohol sweetener contained in chewing gum and candy. Seizures, lethargy and weakness are the result if dogs consume significant amounts of this chemical.

Ibuprofen, like antifreeze, may smell sweet. Dogs will eat it if they're found lying on the floor and don't be surprised if your dog tries to chew threw a bottle to eat the entire contents. This is definitely toxic to dogs. It causes ulceration and perforates the lining of the stomach, and decreases the blood flow to the kidneys. Yet again, toxic to dogs.

And keep the above mentioned foods and chemicals in mind to prevent your dog from consuming toxins. At The Dog Bowl, nothing is more important than your pets' health and well being. For more information about foods and chemicals which are toxic to dogs or if you think your dog could have ingested a toxic substance please contact your local vet as soon as possible.

Age Equivalent

How Old Is My Dog in "Human Years"?
Pet's Age Pet's Size (in pounds)
0-20 lbs 21-50 lbs 51-90 lbs> 90 lbs
5 36 37 40 42
6 40 42 45 49
7 44 47 50 56
8 48 51 55 64
9 52 56 61 71
10 56 60 66 78
11 60 65 72 86
12 64 69 77 93
13 68 74 82 101
14 72 78 88 108
15 76 83 93 115
16 80 87 99 123
17 84 92 104  
18 88 96 109  
19 92 101 115  
20 96 105 120  
Based on a chart developed by Fred L. Metzger, DVM, Dipl. ABVP; State College, PA
Use the chart provided above to find the relative age of your pet. If your pet's relative age is over 40 years many veterinarians recommend a Senior Pet Exam that may include a physical, bloodwork, urinalysis, EKG, and xrays. Each pet is different and the exact procedures included in your pet's Senior Exam will be determined by you, your pet and your veterinarian.

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs

Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs
Laura J. Sanborn, M.S.
May 14, 2007

Precis

At some point, most of us with an interest in dogs will have to consider whether or not to spay / neuter our pet. Tradition holds that the benefits of doing so at an early age outweigh the risks. Often, tradition holds sway in the decision-making process even after countervailing evidence has accumulated.

Ms Sanborn has reviewed the veterinary medical literature in an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, attempting to unravel the complexities of the subject. More than 50 peer-reviewed papers were examined to assess the health impacts of spay / neuter in female and male dogs, respectively. One cannot ignore the findings of increased risk from osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, hypothyroidism, and other less frequently occurring diseases associated with neutering male dogs. It would be irresponsible of the veterinary profession and the pet owning community to fail to weigh the relative costs and benefits of neutering on the animal’s health and well-being. The decision for females may be more complex, further emphasizing the need for individualized veterinary medical decisions, not standard operating procedures for all patients.

No sweeping generalizations are implied in this review. Rather, the author asks us to consider all the health and disease information available as individual animals are evaluated. Then, the best decisions should be made accounting for gender, age, breed, and even the specific conditions under which the long-term care, housing and training of the animal will occur.

This important review will help veterinary medical care providers as well as pet owners make informed decisions. Who could ask for more?

Larry S. Katz, PhD
Associate Professor and Chair
Animal Sciences
Rutgers University
New Brunswick, NJ 08901

INTRODUCTION

Dog owners in America are frequently advised to spay/neuter their dogs for health reasons. A number of health benefits are cited, yet evidence is usually not cited to support the alleged health benefits.

When discussing the health impacts of spay/neuter, health risks are often not mentioned. At times, some risks are mentioned, but the most severe risks usually are not.

This article is an attempt to summarize the long-term health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs that can be found in the veterinary medical literature. This article will not discuss the impact of spay/neuter on population control, or the impact of spay/neuter on behavior.

Nearly all of the health risks and benefits summarized in this article are findings from retrospective epidemiological research studies of dogs, which examine potential associations by looking backwards in time. A few are from prospective research studies, which examine potential associations by looking forward in time.

SUMMARY

An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the longterm health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs, especially immature male dogs, in order to prevent future health problems. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

On the positive side, neutering male dogs

* eliminates the small risk (probably <1%) of dying from testicular cancer
* reduces the risk of non-cancerous prostate disorders
* reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
* may possibly reduce the risk of diabetes (data inconclusive)

On the negative side, neutering male dogs

* if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in medium/large and larger breeds with a poor prognosis.
* increases the risk of cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 1.6
* triples the risk of hypothyroidism
* increases the risk of progressive geriatric cognitive impairment
* triples the risk of obesity, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
* quadruples the small risk (<0.6%) of prostate cancer
* doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract cancers
* increases the risk of orthopedic disorders
* increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in some (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the female dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds.

On the positive side, spaying female dogs

* if done before 2.5 years of age, greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumors, the most common malignant tumors in female dogs
* nearly eliminates the risk of pyometra, which otherwise would affect about 23% of intact female dogs; pyometra kills about 1% of intact female dogs
* reduces the risk of perianal fistulas
* removes the very small risk (<0.5%) from uterine, cervical, and ovarian tumors

On the negative side, spaying female dogs

* if done before 1 year of age, significantly increases the risk of osteosarcoma (bone cancer); this is a common cancer in larger breeds with a poor prognosis
* increases the risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma by a factor of 2.2 and cardiac hemangiosarcoma by a factor of >5; this is a common cancer and major cause of death in some breeds
* triples the risk of hypothyroidism
* increases the risk of obesity by a factor of 1.6-2, a common health problem in dogs with many associated health problems
* causes urinary "spay incontinence" in 4-20% of female dogs
* increases the risk of persistent or recurring urinary tract infections by a factor of 3-4
* increases the risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, and vaginitis, especially for female dogs spayed before puberty
* doubles the small risk (<1%) of urinary tract tumors
* increases the risk of orthopedic disorders * increases the risk of adverse reactions to vaccinations

One thing is clear – much of the spay/neuter information that is available to the public is unbalanced and contains claims that are exaggerated or unsupported by evidence. Rather than helping to educate pet owners, much of it has contributed to common misunderstandings about the health risks and benefits associated of spay/neuter in dogs.

The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all pet dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.

FINDINGS FROM STUDIES

This section summarizes the diseases or conditions that have been studied with respect to spay/neuter in dogs.

Complications from Spay/Neuter Surgery

All surgery incurs some risk of complications, including adverse reactions to anesthesia, hemorrhage, inflammation, infection, etc. Complications include only immediate and near term impacts that are clearly linked to the surgery, not to longer term impacts that can only be assessed by research studies.

At one veterinary teaching hospital where complications were tracked, the rates of intraoperative, postoperative and total complications were 6.3%, 14.1% and 20.6%, respectively as a result of spaying female dogs1. Other studies found a rate of total complications from spaying of 17.7%2 and 23%3. A study of Canadian veterinary private practitioners found complication rates of 22% and 19% for spaying female dogs and neutering male dogs, respectively4.

Serious complications such as infections, abscesses, rupture of the surgical wound, and chewed out sutures were reported at a 1- 4% frequency, with spay and castration surgeries accounting for 90% and 10% of these complications, respectively.4

The death rate due to complications from spay/neuter is low, at around 0.1%2.

Prostate Cancer

Much of the spay/neuter information available to the public asserts that neutering will reduce or eliminate the risk that male dogs develop prostate cancer. This would not be an unreasonable assumption, given that prostate cancer in humans is linked to testosterone. But the evidence in dogs does not support this claim. In fact, the strongest evidence suggests just the opposite.

There have been several conflicting epidemiological studies over the years that found either an increased risk or a decreased risk of prostate cancer in neutered dogs. These studies did not utilize control populations, rendering these results at best difficult to interpret. This may partially explain the conflicting results.

More recently, two retrospective studies were conducted that did utilize control populations. One of these studies involved a dog population in Europe5 and the other involved a dog population in America6. Both studies found that neutered male dogs have a four times higher risk of prostate cancer than intact dogs.

Based on their results, the researchers suggest a cause-and-effect relationship: "this suggests that castration does not initiate the development of prostatic carcinoma in the dog, but does favor tumor progression"5 and also "Our study found that most canine prostate cancers are of ductal/urothelial origin….The relatively low incidence of prostate cancer in intact dogs may suggest that testicular hormones are in fact protective against ductal/urothelial prostatic carcinoma, or may have indirect effects on cancer development by changing the environment in the prostate."6

This needs to be put in perspective. Unlike the situation in humans, prostate cancer is uncommon in dogs. Given an incidence of prostate cancer in dogs of less than 0.6% from necropsy studies7, it is difficult to see that the risk of prostate cancer should factor heavily into most neutering decisions. There is evidence for an increased risk of prostate cancer in at least one breed (Bouviers)5, though very little data so far to guide us in regards to other breeds.

Testicular Cancer

Since the testicles are removed with neutering, castration removes any risk of testicular cancer (assuming the castration is done before cancer develops). This needs to be compared to the risk of testicular cancer in intact dogs.

Testicular tumors are not uncommon in older intact dogs, with a reported incidence of 7%8. However, the prognosis for treating testicular tumors is very good owing to a low rate of metastasis9, so testicular cancer is an uncommon cause of death in intact dogs. For example, in a Purdue University breed health survey of Golden Retrievers10, deaths due to testicular cancer were sufficiently infrequent that they did not appear on list of significant causes of "Years of Potential Life Lost for Veterinary Confirmed Cause of Death” even though 40% of GR males were intact. Furthermore, the GRs who were treated for testicular tumors had a 90.9% cure rate. This agrees well with other work that found 6-14% rates of metastasis for testicular tumors in dogs11.

The high cure rate of testicular tumors combined with their frequency suggests that fewer than 1% of intact male dogs will die of testicular cancer.

In summary, though it may be the most common reason why many advocate neutering young male dogs, the risk from life threatening testicular cancer is sufficiently low that neutering most male dogs to prevent it is difficult to justify.

An exception might be bilateral or unilateral cryptorchids, as testicles that are retained in the abdomen are 13.6 times more likely to develop tumors than descended testicles12 and it is also more difficult to detect tumors in undescended testicles by routine physical examination.

Osteosarcoma (Bone Cancer)

A multi-breed case-control study of the risk factors for osteosarcoma found that spay/neutered dogs (males or females) had twice the risk of developing osteosarcoma as did intact dogs13.

This risk was further studied in Rottweilers, a breed with a relatively high risk of osteosarcoma. This retrospective cohort study broke the risk down by age at spay/neuter, and found that the elevated risk of osteosarcoma is associated with spay/neuter of young dogs14. Rottweilers spayed/neutered before one year of age were 3.8 (males) or 3.1 (females) times more likely to develop osteosarcoma than intact dogs. Indeed, the combination of breed risk and early spay/neuter meant that Rottweilers spayed/neutered before one year of age had a 28.4% (males) and 25.1% (females) risk of developing osteosarcoma. These results are consistent with the earlier multi-breed study13 but have an advantage of assessing risk as a function of age at neuter. A logical conclusion derived from combining the findings of these two studies is that spay/neuter of dogs before 1 year of age is associated with a significantly increased risk of osteosarcoma.

The researchers suggest a cause-and-effect relationship, as sex hormones are known to influence the maintenance of skeletal structure and mass, and also because their findings showed an inverse relationship between time of exposure to sex hormones and risk of osteosarcoma.14

The risk of osteosarcoma increases with increasing breed size and especially height13. It is a common cause of death in medium/large, large, and giant breeds. Osteosarcoma is the third most common cause of death in Golden Retrievers10 and is even more common in larger breeds13.

Given the poor prognosis of osteosarcoma and its frequency in many breeds, spay/neuter of immature dogs in the medium/large, large, and giant breeds is apparently associated with a significant and elevated risk of death due to osteosarcoma.

Mammary Cancer (Breast Cancer)

Mammary tumors are by far the most common tumors in intact female dogs, constituting some 53% of all malignant tumors in female dogs in a study of dogs in Norway15 where spaying is much less common than in the USA.

50-60% of mammary tumors are malignant, for which there is a significant risk of metastasis16. Mammary tumors in dogs have been found to have estrogen receptors17, and the published research18 shows that the relative risk (odds ratio) that a female will develop mammary cancer compared to the risk in intact females is dependent on how many estrus cycles she experiences:

# of estrus cycles before spay - None; Odds Ratio - 0.005

# of estrus cycles before spay - 1; Odds Ratio - 0.08

# of estrus cycles before spay - 2 or more; Odds Ratio - 0.26

# of estrus cycles before spay - INTACT; Odds Ratio - 1.00

The same data when categorized differently showed that the relative risk (odds ratio) that females will develop mammary cancer compared to the risk in intact females indicated that:

Age at Spaying Odds - <29 Months; Ratio 0.06

Age at Spaying Odds - >30 months; Ratio 0.40 (not statistically significant at the P<0.05 level)

Age at Spaying Odds - INTACT; Ratio - 1.00

Please note that these are RELATIVE risks. This study has been referenced elsewhere many times but the results have often been misrepresented as absolute risks.

A similar reduction in breast cancer risk was found for women under the age of 40 who lost their estrogen production due to "artificial menopause"19 and breast cancer in humans is known to be estrogen activated.

Mammary cancer was found to be the 10th most common cause of years of lost life in Golden Retrievers, even though 86% of female GRs were spayed, at a median age of 3.4 yrs10. Considering that the female subset accounts for almost all mammary cancer cases, it probably would rank at about the 5th most common cause of years of lost life in female GRs. It would rank higher still if more female GRs had been kept intact up to 30 months of age.

Boxers, cocker spaniels, English Springer spaniels, and dachshunds are breeds at high risk of mammary tumors15. A population of mostly intact female Boxers was found to have a 40% chance of developing mammary cancer between the ages of 6-12 years of age15. There are some indications that purebred dogs may be at higher risk than mixed breed dogs, and purebred dogs with high inbreeding coefficients may be at higher risk than those with low inbreeding coefficients20. More investigation is required to determine if these are significant.

In summary, spaying female dogs significantly reduces the risk of mammary cancer (a common cancer), and the fewer estrus cycles experienced at least up to 30 months of age, the lower the risk will be.

Female Reproductive Tract Cancer (Uterine, Cervical, and Ovarian Cancers)

Uterine/cervical tumors are rare in dogs, constituting just 0.3% of tumors in dogs21.

Spaying will remove the risk of ovarian tumors, but the risk is only 0.5%22.

While spaying will remove the risk of reproductive tract tumors, it is unlikely that surgery can be justified to prevent the risks of uterine, cervical, and ovarian cancers as the risks are so low.

Urinary Tract Cancer (Bladder and Urethra Cancers)

An age-matched retrospective study found that spay/neuter dogs were two times more likely to develop lower urinary tract tumors (bladder or urethra) compared to intact dogs23. These tumors are nearly always malignant, but are infrequent, accounting for less than 1% of canine tumors. So this risk is unlikely to weigh heavily on spay/neuter decisions.

Airedales, Beagles, and Scottish Terriers are at elevated risk for urinary tract cancer while German Shepherds have a lower than average risk23.

Hemangiosarcoma

Hemangiosarcoma is a common cancer in dogs. It is a major cause of death in some breeds, such as Salukis, French Bulldogs, Irish Water Spaniels, Flat Coated Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Boxers, Afghan Hounds, English Setters, Scottish Terriesr, Boston Terriers, Bulldogs, and German Shepherd Dogs24.

In an aged-matched case controlled study, spayed females were found to have a 2.2 times higher risk of splenic hemangiosarcoma compared to intact females24.

A retrospective study of cardiac hemangiosarcoma risk factors found a >5 times greater risk in spayed female dogs compared to intact female dogs and a 1.6 times higher risk in neutered male dogs compared to intact male dogs.25 The authors suggest a protective effect of sex hormones against hemangiosarcoma, especially in females.

In breeds where hermangiosarcoma is an important cause of death, the increased risk associated with spay/neuter is likely one that should factor into decisions on whether or when to sterilize a dog.

Hypothyroidism

Spay/neuter in dogs was found to be correlated with a three fold increased risk of hypothyroidism compared to intact dogs. 26.

The researchers suggest a cause-and-effect relationship: They wrote: "More important [than the mild direct impact on thyroid function] in the association between [spaying and] neutering and hypothyroidism may be the effect of sex hormones on the immune system. Castration increases the severity of autoimmune thyroiditis in mice" which may explain the link between spay/neuter and hypothyroidism in dogs.

Hypothyroidism in dogs causes obesity, lethargy, hair loss, and reproductive abnormalities.27

The lifetime risk of hypothyroidism in breed health surveys was found to be 1 in 4 in Golden Retrievers10, 1 in 3 in Akitas28, and 1 in 13 in Great Danes29.

Obesity

Owing to changes in metabolism, spay/neuter dogs are more likely to be overweight or obese than intact dogs. One study found a two fold increased risk of obesity in spayed females compared to intact females30. Another study found that spay/neuter dogs were 1.6 (females) or 3.0 (males) times more likely to be obese than intact dogs, and 1.2 (females) or 1.5 (males) times more likely to be overweight than intact dogs31.

A survey study of veterinary practices in the UK found that 21% of dogs were obese.30

Being obese and/or overweight is associated with a host of health problems in dogs. Overweight dogs are more likely to be diagnosed with hyperadrenocorticism, ruptured cruciate ligament, hypothyroidism, lower urinary tract disease, and oral disease32. Obese dogs are more likely to be diagnosed with hypothyroidism, diabetes mellitus, pancreatitis, ruptured cruciate ligament, and neoplasia (tumors)32.

Diabetes

Some data indicate that neutering doubles the risk of diabetes in male dogs, but other data showed no significant change in diabetes risk with neutering33. In the same studies, no association was found between spaying and the risk of diabetes.

Adverse Vaccine Reactions

A retrospective cohort study of adverse vaccine reactions in dogs was conducted, which included allergic reactions, hives, anaphylaxis, cardiac arrest, cardiovascular shock, and sudden death. Adverse reactions were 30% more likely in spayed females than intact females, and 27% more likely in neutered males than intact males34.

The investigators discuss possible cause-and-effect mechanisms for this finding, including the roles that sex hormones play in body’s ability to mount an immune response to vaccination.34

Toy breeds and smaller breeds are at elevated risk of adverse vaccine reactions, as are Boxers, English Bulldogs, Lhasa Apsos, Weimaraners, American Eskimo Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Basset Hounds, Welsh Corgis, Siberian Huskies, Great Danes, Labrador Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers, American Pit Bull Terriers, and Akitas.34 Mixed breed dogs were found to be at lower risk, and the authors suggest genetic hetereogeneity (hybrid vigor) as the cause.

Urogenital Disorders

Urinary incontinence is common in spayed female dogs, which can occur soon after spay surgery or after a delay of up to several years. The incidence rate in various studies is 4-20% 35,36,37 for spayed females compared to only 0.3% in intact females38. Urinary incontinence is so strongly linked to spaying that it is commonly called "spay incontinence" and is caused by urethral sphincter incompetence39, though the biological mechanism is unknown. Most (but not all) cases of urinary incontinence respond to medical treatment, and in many cases this treatment needs to be continued for the duration of the dog's life.40

A retrospective study found that persistent or recurring urinary tract (bladder) infections (UTIs) were 3-4 times more likely in spayed females dogs than in intact females41. Another retrospective study found that female dogs spayed before 5 ½ months of age were 2.76 times more likely to develop UTIs compared to those spayed after 5 1/2 months of age.42

Depending on the age of surgery, spaying causes abnormal development of the external genitalia. Spayed females were found to have an increased risk of recessed vulva, vaginal dermatitis, vaginitis, and UTIs.43 The risk is higher still for female dogs spayed before puberty.43

Pyometra (Infection of the Uterus)

Pet insurance data in Sweden (where spaying is very uncommon) found that 23% of all female dogs developed pyometra before 10 years of age44. Bernese Mountain dogs, Rottweilers, rough-haired Collies, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels and Golden Retrievers were found to be high risk breeds44. Female dogs that have not whelped puppies are at elevated risk for pyometra45. Rarely, spayed female dogs can develop "stump pyometra" related to incomplete removal of the uterus.

Pyometra can usually be treated surgically or medically, but 4% of pyometra cases led to death44. Combined with the incidence of pyometra, this suggests that about 1% of intact female dogs will die from pyometra.

Perianal Fistulas

Male dogs are twice as likely to develop perianal fistulas as females, and spay/neutered dogs have a decreased risk compared to intact dogs46.

German Shepherd Dogs and Irish Setters are more likely to develop perianal fistulas than are other breeds.46

Non-cancerous Disorders of the Prostate Gland

The incidence of benign prostatic hypertrophy (BPH, enlarged prostate) increases with age in intact male dogs, and occurs in more than 80% of intact male dogs older than the age of 5 years47. Most cases of BPH cause no problems, but in some cases the dog will have difficulty defecating or urinating.

Neutering will prevent BPH. If neutering is done after the prostate has become enlarged, the enlarged prostate will shrink relatively quickly.

BPH is linked to other problems of the prostate gland, including infections, abscesses, and cysts, which can sometimes have serious consequences.

Orthopedic Disorders

In a study of beagles, surgical removal of the ovaries (as happens in spaying) caused an increase in the rate of remodeling of the ilium (pelvic bone)48, suggesting an increased risk of hip dysplasia with spaying. Spaying was also found to cause a net loss of bone mass in the spine 49.

Spay/neuter of immature dogs delays the closure of the growth plates in bones that are still growing, causing those bones to end up significantly longer than in intact dogs or those spay/neutered after maturity50. Since the growth plates in various bones close at different times, spay/neuter that is done after some growth plates have closed but before other growth plates have closed might result in a dog with unnatural proportions, possibly impacting performance and long term durability of the joints.

Spay/neuter is associated with a two fold increased risk of cranial cruciate ligament rupture51. Perhaps this is associated with the increased risk of obesity30.

Spay/neuter before 5 1/2 months of age is associated with a 70% increased aged-adjusted risk of hip dysplasia compared to dogs spayed/neutered after 5 ½ months of age, though there were some indications that the former may have had a lower severity manifestation of the disease42. The researchers suggest "it is possible that the increase in bone length that results from early-age gonadectomy results in changes in joint conformation, which could lead to a diagnosis of hip dysplasia."

In a breed health survey study of Airedales, spay/neuter dogs were significantly more likely to suffer hip dysplasia as well as “any musculoskeletal disorder”, compared to intact dogs52, however possible confounding factors were not controlled for, such as the possibility that some dogs might have been spayed/neutered because they had hip dysplasia or other musculoskeletal disorders.

Compared to intact dogs, another study found that dogs neutered six months prior to a diagnosis of hip dysplasia were 1.5 times as likely to develop clinical hip dysplasia.53

Compared to intact dogs, spayed/neutered dogs were found to have a 3.1 fold higher risk of patellar luxation.54

Geriatric Cognitive Impairment

Neutered male dogs and spayed female dogs are at increased risk of progressing from mild to severe geriatric cognitive impairment compared to intact male dogs55. There weren’t enough intact geriatric females available for the study to determine their risk.

Geriatric cognitive impairment includes disorientation in the house or outdoors, changes in social interactions with human family members, loss of house training, and changes in the sleep-wake cycle55.

The investigators state "This finding is in line with current research on the neuro-protective roles of testosterone and estrogen at the cellular level and the role of estrogen in preventing Alzheimer’s disease in human females. One would predict that estrogens would have a similar protective role in the sexually intact female dogs; unfortunately too few sexually intact female dogs were available for inclusion in the present study to test the hypothesis"55

CONCLUSIONS

An objective reading of the veterinary medical literature reveals a complex situation with respect to the longterm health risks and benefits associated with spay/neuter in dogs. The evidence shows that spay/neuter correlates with both positive AND adverse health effects in dogs. It also suggests how much we really do not yet understand about this subject.

On balance, it appears that no compelling case can be made for neutering most male dogs to prevent future health problems, especially immature male dogs. The number of health problems associated with neutering may exceed the associated health benefits in most cases.

For female dogs, the situation is more complex. The number of health benefits associated with spaying may exceed the associated health problems in many (not all) cases. On balance, whether spaying improves the odds of overall good health or degrades them probably depends on the age of the dog and the relative risk of various diseases in the different breeds.

The traditional spay/neuter age of six months as well as the modern practice of pediatric spay/neuter appear to predispose dogs to health risks that could otherwise be avoided by waiting until the dog is physically mature, or perhaps in the case of many male dogs, foregoing it altogether unless medically necessary.

The balance of long-term health risks and benefits of spay/neuter will vary from one dog to the next. Breed, age, and gender are variables that must be taken into consideration in conjunction with non-medical factors for each individual dog. Across-the-board recommendations for all dogs do not appear to be supportable from findings in the veterinary medical literature.

REFERENCES

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2 Pollari FL, Bonnett BN, Bamsey, SC, Meek, AH, Allen, DG (1996) Postoperative complications of elective surgeries in dogs and cats determined by examining electronic and medical records. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 208, 1882-1886

3 Dorn AS, Swist RA. (1977) Complications of canine ovariohysterectomy. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association 13, 720-724

4 Pollari FL, Bonnett BN. Evaluation of postoperative complications following elective surgeries of dogs and cats at private practices using computer records, Can Vet J. 1996 November; 37(11): 672–678.

5 Teske E, Naan EC, van Dijk EM, van Garderen E, Schalken JA. Canine prostate carcinoma: epidemiological evidence of an increased risk in castrated dogs. Mol Cell Endocrinol. 2002 Nov 29;197(1- 2):251-5.

6 Sorenmo KU, Goldschmidt M, Shofer F, Ferrocone J. Immunohistochemical characterization of canine prostatic carcinoma and correlation with castration status and castration time. Vet Comparative Oncology. 2003 Mar; 1 (1): 48

7 Weaver, AD. Fifteen cases of prostatic carcinoma in the dog. Vet Rec. 1981; 109, 71-75.

8 Cohen D, Reif JS, Brodey RS, et al: Epidemiological analysis of the most prevalent sites and types of canine neoplasia observed in a veterinary hospital. Cancer Res 34:2859-2868, 1974

9 Theilen GH, Madewell BR. Tumors of the genital system. Part II. In:Theilen GH, Madewell BR, eds. Veterinary cancer medicine. 2nd ed.Lea and Febinger, 1987:583–600.

10 Glickman LT, Glickman N, Thorpe R. The Golden Retriever Club of America National Health Survey 1998- 1999 http://www.vet.purdue.edu//epi/golden_retriever_final22.pdf

11 Handbook of Small Animal Practice, 3rd ed

12 Hayes HM Jr, Pendergrass TW. Canine testicular tumors: epidemiologic features of 410 dogs. Int J Cancer 1976 Oct 15;18(4):482-7

13 Ru G, Terracini B, Glickman LT. (1998) Host-related risk factors for canine osteosarcoma. Vet J 1998 Jul;156(1):31-9

14 Cooley DM, Beranek BC, Schlittler DL, Glickman NW, Glickman LT, Waters DJ. Endogenous gonadal hormone exposure and bone sarcoma risk. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2002 Nov;11(11):1434-40.

15 Moe L. Population-based incidence of mammary tumours in some dog breeds. J of Reproduction and Fertility Supplment 57, 439-443.

16 Ferguson HR; Vet Clinics of N Amer: Small Animal Practice; Vol 15, No 3, May 1985

17 MacEwen EG, Patnaik AK, Harvey HJ Estrogen receptors in canine mammary tumors. Cancer Res., 42: 2255-2259, 1982.

18 Schneider, R, Dorn, CR, Taylor, DON. Factors Influencing Canine Mammary Cancer Development and Postsurgical Survival. J Natl Cancer Institute, Vol 43, No 6, Dec. 1969

19 Feinleib M: Breast cancer and artificial menopause: A cohort study. J Nat Cancer Inst 41: 315-329, 1968.

20 Dorn CR and Schneider R. Inbreeding and canine mammary cancer. A retrospective study. J Natl Cancer Inst. 57: 545-548, 1976.

21 Brodey RS: Canine and feline neoplasia. Adv Vet Sci Comp Med 14:309-354, 1970

22 Hayes A, Harvey H J: Treatment of metastatic granulosa cell tumor in a dog. J Am Vet Med Assoc 174:1304-1306, 1979 Page 11 of 12

23 Norris AM, Laing EJ, Valli VE, Withrow SJ. J Vet Intern Med 1992 May; 6(3):145-53

24 Prymak C, McKee LJ, Goldschmidt MH, Glickman LT. Epidemiologic, clinical, pathologic, and prognostic characteristics of splenic hemangiosarcoma and splenic hematoma in dogs: 217 cases (1985). J Am Vet Med Assoc 1988 Sep; 193(6):706-12

25 Ware WA, Hopper, DL. Cardiac Tumors in Dogs: 1982-1995. J Vet Intern Med 1999;13:95–103.

26 Panciera DL. Hypothyroidism in dogs: 66 cases (1987-1992). J Am Vet Med Assoc. 1994 Mar 1;204(5):761-7

27 Panciera DL. Canine hypothyroidism. Part I. Clinical findings and control of thyroid hormone secretion and metabolism. Compend Contin Pract Vet 1990: 12: 689-701.

28 Glickman LT, Glickman N, Raghaven M, The Akita Club of America National Health Survey 2000-2001. http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/akita_final_2.pdf

29 Glickman LT, HogenEsch H, Raghavan M, Edinboro C, Scott-Moncrieff C. Final Report to the Hayward Foundation and The Great Dane Health Foundation of a Study Titled Vaccinosis in Great Danes. 1 Jan 2004. http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/great_dane_vaccinosis_fullreport_jan04.pdf

30 Edney AT, Smith PM. Study of obesity in dogs visiting veterinary practices in the United Kingdom. .Vet Rec. 1986 Apr 5;118(14):391-6.

31 McGreevy PD, Thomson PC, Pride C, Fawcett A, Grassi T, Jones B. Prevalence of obesity in dogs examined by Australian veterinary practices and the risk factors involved. Vet Rec. 2005 May 28;156(22):695-702.

32 Lund EM, Armstrong PJ, Kirk, CA, Klausner, JS. Prevalence and Risk Factors for Obesity in Adult Dogs from Private US Veterinary Practices. Intern J Appl Res Vet Med-Vol. 4, No. 2, 2006.

33 Marmor M, Willeberg P, Glickman LT, Priester WA, Cypess RH, Hurvitz AI. Epizootiologic patterns of diabetes mellitus in dogs Am J Vet Res. 1982 Mar;43(3):465-70. ..

34 Moore GE, Guptill LF, Ward MP, Glickman NW, Faunt KF, Lewis HB, Glickman LT. Adverse events diagnosed within three days of vaccine administration in dogs. JAVMA Vol 227, No 7, Oct 1, 2005

35 Thrusfield MV, Holt PE, Muirhead RH. Acquired urinary incontinence in bitches: its incidence and relationship to neutering practices.. J Small Anim Pract. 1998. Dec;39(12):559-66.

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38 Thrusfield MV 1985 Association between urinary incontinence and spaying in bitches Vet Rec 116 695

39 Richter KP, Ling V. Clinical response and urethral pressure profile changes after phenypropanolamine in dogs with primary sphincter incompetence. J Am Vet Med Assoc 1985: 187: 605-611.

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41 Seguin MA, Vaden SL, Altier C, Stone E, Levine JF (2003) Persistent Urinary Tract Infections and Reinfections in 100 Dogs (1989–1999). Journal of Veterinary Internal Medicine: Vol. 17, No. 5 pp. 622–631.

42 Spain CV, Scarlett JM, Houpt KA. Long-term risks and benefits of early-age gonadectomy in dogs. JAVMA 2004;224:380-387.

43 Verstegen-Onclin K, Verstegen J. Non-reproductive Effects of Spaying and Neutering: Effects on the Urogenital System. Proceedings of the Third International Symposium on Non-Surgical Contraceptive Methods for Pet Population Control http://www.acc-d.org/2006%20Symposium%20Docs/Session%20I.pdf

44 Hagman R: New aspects of canine pyometra. Doctoral thesis, Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Uppsala, 2004. Page 12 of 12

Toxic Plants

Here are some of the toxic plants you should keep away from your pets. If you suspect that your dog might have eaten any plant that might be toxic, contact his/her vet immediately. Many common house and garden plants can be toxic to animals if swallowed. The symptoms can be diarrhea, nausea, or skin allergies.

This list is limited and if you need further information about a particular plant , please contact your pet's vet and local Poison Control Center.

Most Poisonous
Moderately Poisonous
Least Poisonous
Toxic Plants
Name
Poisonous Parts
Clinical Signs
Apricot Stem, bark, seed pits
Azalea (Rhododendron spp.) All parts, mostly leaves Stomach irritation, abdominal pain, abnormal heart rate and rhythm, convulsions, coma, death.
Bird of Paradise Fruit, seeds
Boston Ivy All parts
Caladium All parts
Creeping Charlie (Glecoma hederacea L.) All parts Sweating, drooling, usually not fatal.
Castor Bean (Ricinus communis) All part but mostly seeds, if chewed Nausea, abdominal pain, bloody diarrhea, tenesmus, dehydration, shortness of breath, excessive thirst, weakness, muscle twitching, convulsions, coma.
Choke Cherry (Prunus virginiana) Leaves, seed pits, stems, bark
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.) Bulbs
Daphne Berries, bark, leaves
English Ivy (Hedera helix L.) Leaves, berries stomach irritation, diarrhea, troubled breathing, coma, death.
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea L.) Leaves, seeds, flowers
Glacier Ivy Leaves, berries
Heartleaf All parts
Hemlock, Water (Cicuta maculata L.) All parts, root and root stalk Dilated pupils, frothing at the mouth, spasms muscles spasms, restlessness, convulsions, and death (within 15 min to 2 hours)
Hyacinth (Hyacinth orientalis) Bulbs, leaves, flowers Colic, vomiting and diarrhea, usually not fatal.
Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) Leaves, buds Irritation and inflammation of the digestive tract, diarrhea, bloody stool.
Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum L.) All parts, unripe fruit
Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense) Leaves and stems, especially young plants. Breathing problems, severe anxiety, convulsions, coma, death. Intravenous antidote exsist.
Jimson Weed (Datura stramonium L.) All parts Rapid pulse, rapid breathing, dilated pupils, restlessness, nervousness, twitching, frequent urination, diarrhea, depression, weight loss, weak pulse, convulsions, coma, death.
Jonquil Bulbs
Lantana (Lantana camara L.) Leaves and berries Sluggishness, weakness, bloody diarrhea. In severe cases, death may occurs in 2 to 4 days.
Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis) All parts
Mandrake Roots, foliage, unripe fruit
Mistletoe Berries
Morning Glory Seeds
Marble Queen All parts
Nightshade (Solanum spp.) All parts Hallucinations, severe intestinal disturbances, diarrhea, drowsiness, numbness, dilated pupils, trembling, labored breathing, nasal discharge, rapid heartbeat, weak pulse, incoordination, paralysis or severe shaking of the rear legs, rapid heart rate, bloat, can be fatal.
Nephthytis, Arrowhead Vine All parts
Oats, (Avena sativa) All parts Breathing difficulty, skin irritation, paralysis, convulsions, death (rare).
Pigweed, Redroot (Amaranthus retroflexus) Leaves, stems, roots. Troubled breathing, trembling, weakness, coma, death.
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) Leaves, flowers Skin, mouth, eye, and stomach irritation.
Pokeweed, Inkberry All parts colic, diarrhea, blood in stool, rare cases anemia, and possible death.
Parlor Ivy All parts
Red Sage Green berries
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum) Leaves Staggering, trembling, breathing difficulties, weakness, diarrhea, increased drinking and urinating, death.
Red Princess All parts
Saddleleaf All parts
Tulip (Tulipa spp.) Bulbs
Umbrella Plant All parts
Yew, English (Taxus baccata) and Japanese (Taxus cuspidata Sieb. & Zucc.) n/a Breathing problems, trembling, weakness, heart problems, stomach upset, very sudden death.
All information provided is for educational purposes only. This information is not intended as medical advice and can never replace medical care and treatments.